The best roasters of oolong tea know restraint, and have the miraculous ability to both deepen the mouth feel of a tea, add the warm roasted taste to the leaves, and yet still keep the fresh bright character of the final tea. Master Wei’s duckshit fragrance is a fine example of this. This tea has been roasted three times in the traditional Chaozhou way, bamboo baskets over a bed of coals. The leaves has a rich pine and wet peat fragrance, while the liquor is smooth and sweet, with a butteriness that is common to the varietal. The feeling we get upon drinking this tea is very mellow, a relaxed giddiness that we find common to the higher-mountain dancong teas.
This tea is called old bush not due to the age of the tea trees (30-50 years old) but because Master Wei does not prune the trees, thus all the tea harvested comes from old growth branches, instead of the fresh green shoots a pruned tree will produce. This is what Master Wei said when we asked him why he does not prune his 20-foot tall tea trees:
Question: why don’t you prune tall/old tea trees?
Answer: 因为不修剪才能有韵味和老树的丛味，如果你修剪了之后从新长出新芽，我们菜回来的茶叶做出来的味道和新丛没有什么差别。(Original text from Master Wei).
Answer: We don’t prune in order to preserve the old bush and yunwei flavor. If pruned, the tea picked from a new shoot will taste just like tea from a young bush.
In short: New growth (pruned) and Old growth (unpruned) have different tastes.