Tea: Xinyang Maojian (信阳毛尖)
Harvest: April 12th 2025
Producer: Liang Family
Location: Liuling Village, Xinyang City
Flavor Notes: Cabbage, Celery, Fried Kale, Smoked Meat.
This is a model Maojian from a perfectly typical Xinyang producer. It has the three characteristics prized by locals: big (leaves), cloudy (soup), fragrant (aroma). We would add to those descriptors robust and smokey. Although this tea starts in a wood heated tumbler and then goes through a uniquely local mix of electric wok whisking and charcoal roasting. The finished product is a little rough in shape, but comes with a lot flavor and attitude. This Maojian will completely coat your tongue and fill your nasal cavity with green umami that enters the mouth with sharpness but leaves behind intense sweetness. One consequence of finishing over charcoal is a smokey element that was almost overwhelming on day one, but has now begun to fade into the background as it rests.
This tea begins on the Liang family’s low mountain plot under the shade of chestnut trees. The fuzzy-leaved local heirloom bushes this tea was picked from is referred to as “Lao Hancha” (Old Dry Tea). The leaves on these bushes mature late, and this year grew extra slow and late due to local drought. The Liang Family’s small roadside operation is one of hundreds that caters to the truckers, tourists, and locals that descend upon the Dabie foothills in southern Xinyang for green tea every April. Like villagers in Bingdao or Longjing, the Liang family find themselves in the unique position of not having to worry about selling their tea in 2025 China. Customers like us show up on their doorstep and buy the 10ish pounds of Maojian they can make daily. They have no branding, social media, or even fridge space. Mom, dad, and an uncle work the garage shop, while daughter Jinzhen sits in the living room waiting for cars to stop. This is a straightforward tea from straight forward people.
This is a robust enough of a green tea that it could be enjoy both grandpa style or Gongfu, as the smokey flavor should completely drop away in later infusions.
